Lights and starter

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The problem with the 'fant lights and starter is that the existing wiring is too thin and the switch can't efficiently carry the current needed even for 60/55W globes. Over time the switch deteriorates and you get a serious voltage drop. The headlight fix is a matter of doing the following (be aware that I have only performed this modification on a bike that does not have fuel injection).I've run an extra positive supply, 6mm core, direct from the battery to the "in" side of the starter solenoid, bypassing the connector between the battery and main harness that my bike has under the right-hand side cover. Then another 6mm lead from the "out" side of the solenoid to the starter. Then a 6mm earth wire direct from the battery to the earthing point on the motor. I sealed the end of the original supply wire and left it in place, but disconnected, in case I need it for an emergency supply.Piggybacked on to the "in" side of the solenoid is a wire running to the headlight relays. This is 3mm core. The wire is fused with a waterproof fuseholder right near the solenoid. This supply runs to two standard auto headlight relays - one for low beam and one for high - that are zip-tied behind the headlight fairing to the instrument panel frame, with a bit of upholstery foam between the relays and the frame. Make sure you get relays that have two outputs. Use the original headlight supplies as the switching current for the high and low relays. I keep the original supply for the park light.Further back in the existing headlight/starter circuit my 'fant already has a relay that cuts the headlights when you hit the starter; so even though my new 6mm wire supplies lights and starter it is never supplying them both at the same time. As already stressed, my bike does not have EFI and wiring arrangements may be different on these bikes.I always use high-quality connectors, seal them at the back with silicon sealant where the wires go in and lubricate the connector tips with a dielectric grease. Wherever your new wiring could rub against something and wear through the insulation, sheath it with heatshrink or some sort of plastic or rubber tubing.With the new wiring my bike no longer hesitates on starting. The headlights are about twice as bright - no joke. The voltage drop is gone and I've also used "xenon" 60/55 globes (not the blue type) that use xenon gas instead of ordinary halogen. At this stage I'm not going to higher wattage bulbs, mainly because the reflector is plastic and I'm afraid of it melting. With the xenon bulbs the headlights throw a brilliant white light. I'd equate my xenon high beam with 100 watts from a normal halogen bulb - without exaggeration.


Warren Murrayelefantman@ozemail.com.au
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